Duomo of Naples © 123rf.com

Every year on 19 September, dried blood from the beheaded San Gennaro liquefies in its ampoule at the Duomo (cathedral) of Naples. This centuries-old phenomenon inspires awe and scepticism in equal measures, not only on the saint's feast day but again on the first Saturday in May and for a third time on 16 December. To get a glimpse of the miracle, crowds arrive early and surge into the cathedral when the doors open. A silver bust of the saint is placed next to the altar and the ampoule is shown to the faithful and then slowly turned. Traditional prayers are said and these heighten to a crescendo as the blood liquifies. There are processions in advance of this, and afterwards a carnival atmosphere prevails outside, where the cathedral is surrounded by stalls selling sweets, curios and religious figurines.

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